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Sunday, May 2, 2021

Polarising animal print: Do you wear or avoid it? - Stuff.co.nz

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Nothing polarises the fashion world more than prints that take their cue from the animal kingdom. Samantha Murray Greenway and Nadine Rubin Nathan make cases for and against the print.

Samantha Murray Greenway says no

Animal prints are filed in my brain under WOWW. Not ‘Wow!’ as in amazing but, WOWW as in, What Other Women Wear.

I love fashion the way some people love food. Every detail, reference and opportunity for self-expression fascinates me. But while there are clothes that I am regularly drawn towards and serially buy (long-line dresses with leg-elongating high waists, neat neutral-toned sweaters with round necklines), there are items I wouldn’t touch. Animal print is one.

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It’s not that I’ve never tried. When Tom Ford did a slinky take on 70s style, I bought a snake-skin print stretch-silk shirt. When Diane von Furstenberg revived her jersey print wrap dresses, I boldly went for zebra. I lent a stretch leopard print dress to a friend who revelled in wearing something so out-there. She put it with trainers and felt happily subversive wearing it to Downing St to meet the then British Prime Minister.

Are prints that take their cue from the animal kingdom a classic or a no go?

Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images

Are prints that take their cue from the animal kingdom a classic or a no go?

While I’m a proud clothes hoarder, I’ve not kept any of the above. Truth is, I feel overwhelmed in anything busy and, of course with animal print, there’s an added dimension. I blame it on Bet Lynch, the larger than life barmaid-with-beehive from Coronation Street who was also leopard print’s favourite ambassador. To wear it well requires attitude, because the addition of a bit of leopard or cheetah turns up the heat a notch, providing a very animal take on a sex appeal.

More recently, J. Crew did a clever job of de-sexing it – infusing leopard print with pastels, printing it on baggy sweats and parkas to lure a new wave of followers. But surely the whole allure of the stuff is the fun you can have with all those sexy/edgy connotations?

Last year, while drifting through Duty Free I was tempted by a Stephen Sprouse leopard print scarf for Louis Vuitton with its low-key tan/black colourway, small jungle print and the surprise street twist of fluoro graffiti writing. But while it looked like something a chic Parisian might wear, I could still see it behind the bar at the Rovers Return. Somewhat regrettably, I added it to my WOWW list.

Nadine Rubin Nathan says yes

Recently, my husband turned 50 and threw himself a party with a theme: Alter ego. When I was brainstorming my outfit with a friend, she said: “If you turn up in leopard print, you’ll be disqualified.”

Until then, I hadn’t quite realised how much wearing leopard print had become my ubiquitous signature style.

But a quick peek in my closet confirmed it. I currently own a V-neck silk dress, a maxi skirt cut on the bias, a chiffon shirt with frothy frills at the neck and wrists, a cotton collar shirt, two T-shirts, a cross body bag, a faux-fur hat, two pairs of gym leggings, a pair of sneakers and a swimsuit – all in leopard print. I also wear tortoiseshell glasses that could pass as leopard.

I like to think that my love of leopard print has something to do with the fact that I grew up in South Africa where once-real pelts marked aristocracy, especially for the Zulu. Or it could be my long-time affair with fashion where leopard featured prominently in Christian Dior couture and in Jackie Kennedy’s iconic wardrobe.

I also like to think that wearing the print tells the world that I am happy to stand out in a crowd.

Of course I am aware of the kitschy connotations of leopard – see Bettie Page in lingerie – and the seedy side too. When I moved to New York in 2004 I remember wearing my leopard print skirt with pride, only to have some guy ask me if the wildcat print meant I was a prostitute. (He wished he hadn’t.)

Over the years, I have made short detours to snakeskin, tiger print and the odd bit of zebra, but I always come back to leopard. So you can imagine how thrilled I was a few years ago when the then-creative director of J.Crew, Jenna Lyons, declared “leopard is a neutral”, firmly placing the print in fashion for the foreseeable future and removing any lingering negative associations.

Jenna and J.Crew have moved on but the idea remains. In fact, long-time UK fashion editor Erica Davies is publishing a style guide in April titled Leopard is a Neutral, offering practical advice on how to make “bold, assured style decisions”. Wear it. I dare you.

Is animal print a go-to in your wardrobe or do you steer well clear? Let us know in the comments below.

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"avoid it" - Google News
May 03, 2021 at 10:10AM
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Polarising animal print: Do you wear or avoid it? - Stuff.co.nz
"avoid it" - Google News
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